Shelf Life | Vol. 9: Merch Multiverse - Brought to you by the Letters I and P
šļø May 2025 | āļø By Jackie Swanson
Streaming might build fandoms... but merchandise builds fortunes.
The recent Sesame Street x Netflix deal isnāt just a content play. Itās a merchandising masterstroke. In todayās ROI-driven economy, success isnāt defined by views, itās defined by what ends up in your cart: plushies, partyware, mini figures, fleece blankets. Thatās where the money is.
But the new world of hyper-merchandised IP is facing a triple threat: piracy, POD, and platform disintermediation.
Letās explore whatās really changing...
Can You Tell Me How to Get to... Checkout?
From Barbie to Bluey, and now Labubu, the power of character IP has never been stronger.
The Labubu doll phenomenon, fueled by TikTok hauls and drop culture, shows just how quickly niche characters can become global merchandising giants. Sesame Streetās new Netflix deal confirms what many of us suspected: for entertainment brands, merchandising rights are now more valuable than media distribution.
Weāre entering an age where some IP may be created not for storylines, but for shelf appeal.
It's a Beautiful Day for Brand Control
Counterfeiters have evolvedāand TikTok is their new storefront.
While Etsy cracks down on unlicensed āinspired byā goods, counterfeit sellers have gone DTC. Recent TikTok videos show Chinese factory reps offering fake designer goods directly to U.S. consumersāno platform, no middleman, no remorse.
š According to Gartner: āBrands must accelerate digital product authentication and AI-powered enforcement, or risk losing control of their IP at scale.ā
The threat isnāt theoretical. When the same factories producing your licensed merch are also running unauthorized after-hours batches, the risk is embedded in the system.
Mighty Morphin' Merchandisers
Print-on-demand isnāt the future of supply chains, but itās forcing retailers to rethink their present.
AI-generated designs, personalization engines, and trend-based drops are giving rise to real-time merchandising tied to micro-moments. And while POD comes with higher costs and scaling limitations, it introduces serious disruption:
⨠AI-assisted design + content creation ā” Design-to-door speed in days š¦ Zero inventory holding costs šÆ Merch built for niche or viral demand
š§ Gartner notes: āRetailers should explore on-demand manufacturing to support hyper-local or trend-sensitive categories where agility outweighs scale.ā
Itās not about replacing traditional supply chainsābut understanding that agility now outweighs forecasting in many categories.
Copycat!
What happens when factories start skipping the brands altogether?
Some manufacturers are already testing DTC models, producing trend-driven merch using TikTok data, generative design, and no licensing. Why wait for a brandās seasonal line review when a knockoff can be live on Temu in 72 hours?
The retail supply chain is decentralizingāand IP enforcement needs to get just as fast.
Princess Has More Power!
Licensing used to be about five-year master agreements. Now itās about fast, flexible, digital-first collabs.
Hereās whatās next:
šŖŖ Micro-licensing for creators and influencer brands š¤ Generative AI-built characters made for merchandising š āBorn-to-be-merchā IP that lives on shirts before it ever hits screens
Welcome to the creator economy meets consumer goods.
You Donāt Have to Take My Word for It...
Smart brands arenāt waiting to react. Theyāre investing now in:
š” AI-powered enforcement tools that detect fakes in real time š§Ŗ Trusted POD partners for test-and-learn merchandise drops š Blockchain authentication for high-value IP š Cross-functional loops between trend monitoring, design, and sourcing
š Gartner continues to advise clients to build flexible merchandising strategies that are: āready for rapid design cycles, viral demand, and diversified sourcing.ā
š¬ Your Turn:
How should retailers evolve their IP strategy in the age of TikTok and AI?
š Letās discuss: Control vs. Collaboration
More to come in the Shelf Life series. Follow me here for sharp takes on the trends shaping retail, fashion, and consumer product companies. Want to talk more about how Gartner Consulting can help your organization? Subscribe to Shelf Life on LinkedIn, Follow me @ShelfLifebyJKS on Instagram or reach out!
š Jackie Swanson is a Managing Partner at Gartner Consulting, specializing in retail, consumer products, and utilities. She advises companies on large-scale transformations spanning strategy, operations, and technology. Jackie lives in New York with her husband and their three children.
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